While out to buy some haleem during the first week of Ramzan, I discovered that the popular Kolkata restaurant Saiqa had introduced a new dish: daleem. A red menu board on a tiled wall proudly advertised the dish, ensuring nobody missed it. There is a lot to be said for Saiqa, a mostly working-class place, but I had never thought food innovation to be among its charms. Curious, I asked the person manning the counter about the culinary invention—only to be met with a googly. “It’s not a new thing—it’s haleem only,” said Mohammad Asghar Ali, the son of the proprietor. “Daleem is actually the correct name.” Was daleem actually the right name? I had grown up eating the lentil-wheat-meat stew that was available only during Ramzan, the Islamic month of dawn-to-dusk fasting. I was pretty sure it had always been called haleem. Enjoy this content in the new Quartz app Get the app Thanks for being a loyal reader. You’ve hit your monthly article limit. Become a member to continue reading and support our journalism. Unlock unlimited access to Quartz, including member-exclusive coverage, events, and access to our journalists. Start free trial Log in Membership will also get you: Exclusive videos that show you how the world is changing faster than ever before Deeper access to our journalists and the Quartz community Our extensive archive of guides on the forces that are shaping our future

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